Journal #15

I wrap up this week's journal with three themes that have emerged from research and a need to focus and write off the exhibition's intentions and give a semblance of order.

Unapologetically, I admit working on The Vulgar and attending Judith Clark's recent talks have had an influence into the preoccupation with meta-fashion curation e.g. fashion curation that primarily expands on a theme surrounding fashion but also alludes to aspects of fashion curation.  Clark's exhibition; The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined includes in its captions moments of fashion history. In 'Oes and Spangles', she hints at the conservation work-room by displaying objects using the language of dress conservators: cotton tape, insect pins, flat-laid garments almost dissected. They are 'fragments' of an outfit designed by Prada. 

"Object based research focused necessarily and unapologetically on examination of the details of clothing and fabric. This process depends upon a series of patiently acquired, specialised skills...skills that have been underrated by many economic, social and cultural historians. Curators and conservators become expert at professional specialist care over cleaning, repairing, washing, pressing, storing and displaying clothing. These are skills that society at large still considers very feminine domestic occupations-almost...like doing the laundry" Taylor, 1998, p. 347-348

Taylor's quote above highlighted to me a way to look at the topic of Mending-- in daily life mending is a personal pursuit. Or an intimate pursuit; a parent mending a child's jumper. But professional menders, or conservators, are present in the stage of preserving dress and costume for the future. In a visit to Janie's studio, one can see the various textiles and garments that are so carefully mended so as to cause the least possible harm and intervention to the objects by a group of women. In this way, mending could be seen as gendered. However, when we speak of fixing, the connotations are masculine. It is your car-guy who fixes your car. Mr Fix it, the plumber. 

​Themes for Exhibition:
1. The Worker
Work wear-Visible Mending-Peasants-Farmers-Authentic-Rough-Distressed-Class
Followed with Artistic interpretations-imagined-tropes of mending such as visible stitching
Masculine connotations

2. The Bricoleur
Utility Wear-Inventiveness-Resourceful Mending-Military-Artisanal 
Followed with artisanal/designer interpretations-inventiveness in materials-re purposing-workshops
Masculine connotations

3. The Mender
Changes to garment style via alterations-Fancy-Dress-Related to the home (children's wear, maternity alterations)-dandies-Make do and Mend
Female Connotations
 
Reference:
Taylor, L. (1998) 'Doing the Laundry? A Reassessment of Object-based Dress History', Fashion Theory, Methodology Special Isue, Vol 2 Issue 4, December, pp. 337-368